Tl;dr: unfit middle-aged Brummie woman with lifelong surfing obsession fulfils dream by not standing up on board.
The challenge has always been to surf. It's been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember fuelled by seeing early skateboarding films in the '70s. Then came movies such as Big Wednesday, The Endless Summer, Blue Crush, Lords of Dogtown and the oh-so-quotable Point Break. I even read books: Andrew Martin's cult classic Walking on Water was particularly inspiring as (like Keanu in PB) a fellow journalist gets the ultimate assignment – he'll be paid to go surfing, in Hawaii, for The Times. 'Awesome.'
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